Luce & Hawkins At Jedediah Hawkins Inn

*It’s not the sort of thing you immediately think of at the mention of Long Island, and that, in some way, is entirely the point. The location is Jamesport, on the North Fork of far eastern Long Island, and what tempts guests out from Manhattan or down from New England isn’t some luxury hotel or funky boutique — it’s a painstakingly restored six-room Victorian inn, and a restaurant, Luce & Hawkins, that’s well worth the drive on its own.

We say painstakingly restored, but it’s not some kind of archaeological dig. The original Victorian architecture is in fine form, but the style is no period piece — we know the Victorians would have been happy to have Frette linens and Korres bath products, and even the occasional bit of mid-century modern furniture in the Cocoa room. Each room has a character all its own, and it’s about as far from a cookie-cutter contemporary hotel as it gets.

The grounds, with their gardens, fountains and gazebo, reward some wandering, especially in summer (though in winter, know you’ll have your room’s fireplace awaiting). But the restaurant is where the real action is: Luce & Hawkins makes the most of Long Island’s local wine and produce, under the direction of Keith Luce, a James Beard award winner and former White House chef.

How to get there:
Jedediah Hawkins Inn is approximately 85 miles from New York City. From the city, take the Long Island Expressway to the last exit, exit 73, then follow Country Road 58 into Route 25. At the traffic light in Jamesport make a right turn down South Jmesport Avenue. The Inn is 100 yards away on the left.-Tablet Hotels